Here's the basics on how to use a C-clamp type valvespring compressor when you have the head off of the car, and $200 Miller Tool for when the head is still on the car.

Not much here for details, but the pictures speak for themselves.

Most valvespring compressors simply don't fit DSM heads worth a damn. If you have the head off of your car during an engine rebuild, and want to send it to a shop for work, and have access to a welder, you can build this valvespring compressor and save some money. I had some sockets laying around, so my total outlay for the tool was $25 for the compressor and $10 to weld it. The first time I used it, it paid for itself in saved labor costs, and every time I use it now, it saves me more.

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	Here is the tool, ready to go. I bought the main compressor from Sears for $25. It wouldn't fit the DSM head, even with the extended tip on it, as the tip hit the edge of the head long before it pressed against the valve retainer. Putting a socket against the tip and valve retainer was a bit better, but the extended tip still interfered with the head. So I put the flat extension on the compressor, and figured out I'd need 2 sockets to get the right extension to avoid interfering with anything. I had bought a $100 all metric set from Sears, and it came with a small (14mm?) sparkplug socket, and 18mm deep socket that are NEVER used on DSMs. So I used them to save a bit of money. If you are buying new sockets to use, you will save a bit of work by buying the small sparkplug socket (remove the rubber insert), and a deep socket that the hex of the sparkplug socket slips into.
	Here's a closeup of the sockets. I welded the 18mm socket to the flat extension that came with the compressor, then ground the hex end of the sparkplug socket until it fit into the end of the 18mm deep socket, then welded them together. I then cut a window out of the sparkplug socket. NOTE that the location of the window is important for ease of use - it faces away from the rest of the compressor, so once you have it on the valve, you have the most room to rotate the compressor around if needed to access the keepers on the valve tip.
	Here's a pic of the alignment of the sockets and the "pusher pin" (don't know what else to call it). The pusher pin should be as close to centered in the socket opening as possible, to keep the force of the compressor running straight through the valve stem. I pushed the pusher pin all the way into the end of the socket when welding it to help on the alignment.

THAT'S IT! To use it, push the pusher pin all the way out to give the jaws the widest gap, then use the spring-loaded release on the compressor to open the jaws fully. Slip the sockets of the jaw over the edge of the head onto the valve retainer, then push the pusher pin up against the valve face and tighen its' lock screw down. Then compress the compressor, and remove the valve keepers (the little wedges), release the compressor, and remove the retainer, spring, spring seat, and valve. Reverse to reinstall the valves.

The Miller Tool (http://www.spxmiller.com/) Valvespring Compressor (part # MLR-MD998772A) is a bit expensive at $190, but if a Regional club pools money together, it doesn't hurt the wallet too much. I personally bought one and will be renting it out to locals to pay back some of the cost. This tool will work on all MMC engines along with 3.0L, 3.3L, 3.5L, 3.8L, 5.2L, & 8.0 Liter Chrysler engines, 1992 thru Current, so you can rent it out to people outside of your club.

NOTE: in order to use this tool on the car, you need to remove the timing belt. Once you have the timing belt off the car and the cams and sparkplugs removed (or loose in their bores), you can turn the engine over to compress the rope/hose in each cylinder without having to worry about valve damage. Once you've replaced all the valvestem seals and removed the tool, continue with replacing the timing belt, but make sure you have the cams installed with the dowel pins straight up before lining all the other timing belt marks up and installing the timing belt.

This VFAQ starts with the cams and rocker arms already removed - if you don't know how to remove them, check the Shop Manual. Make sure you stuff rags in any open hole in the head before working on it, you don't want to drop a bolt, tool, or valvetrain piece down into the engine, or you'll be pulling the oilpan to retrieve it.

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	Here's a pic of the complete tool set up on the car.
	The tool uprights are basically large threaded rod with holes tapped in each end. There are different sized studs screwed into the ends of the rods, one is for MMC engines, one is for Chryslers. Remove the studs from the rods, figure out which one is needed for your engine, and screw it into one of the valvecover bolt holes as shown. Snug it down with a screwdriver, but not too tight, the head is aluminum. Then put the large brass washer over the stud. Repeat for the other side of the head.
	Screw the rod down onto the stud by hand, spin one of the nuts onto the rod, spin it down until it contacts the brass washer, and tighten it lightly with a wrench. Repeat for the other side of the head.
	Spin another nut onto each rod, leaving about 4" of threads showing between this nut and the one tightened against the head (you may need to adjust this height later). Drop the main frame onto the rods, spin the final nuts onto the rods, and tighten the frame down.
	Remove the wing bolt from the compressor frame (shown lightened for contrast), slip it onto the main frame, and replace the wing bolt. Feed some rope or vacuum hose into the sparkplug hole for the cylinder you will be working on. You want to turn the crank so that the piston is at the bottom of the bore (BDC), put some rope/hose in (how much depends on the thickness of the rope you use) and crank the piston up to the top of the bore (TDC), or as close as you can get it (basically until you feel the rope/hose stop compressing). The rope/hose will keep the valves from dropping into the bore when you remove the valvesprings and seals. Make sure to move the rope to the proper cylinder as you do this job, if you remove a the retainer/spring from a valve that is not held up by rope, it will drop into the bore, and you'll have to pull the head to get it out. It is easiest to do all of the intake or exhaust at once so you don't have to keep moving the tool, so you will be moving the rope and cranking the engine around many times to do this right. Your other choice is to do the following: Put rope in cylinders 1 and 4, crank the engine to compress those cyl Place the tool on the intake side of the head. Do the intake valves for 1 and 4 Move the tool to the exhaust side of the head. Do the exhaust valves for 1 and 4 Turn the crank a little counterclockwise, remove the rope from 1/4 Turn the crank a little clockwise to get 2/3 back to BDC Feed the rope into cyl 2/3 Turn the crank clockwise to compress the rope Do the exhaust valves for 2/3 Move the tool to the intake side of the head. Do the intake valves for 2/3
	Slide the compressor frame over so it is centered over the valve you want to work on. Pull the compressor bolt forward/back on the frame until it is as parallel with the valvestem as possible. Tighten it down until it contacts the valvespring retainer, make sure everything is still aligned properly, and tighten it down until you feel some pressure from the valvespring pushing back at you. Turn it a couple more turns. Tap the top of the compressor until you see the valve "pop", and the keepers loosen. Then turn the compressor several more turns, until you see the keepers come loose and start to come out of the valvespring retainer.
	Grab the keepers with a needlenose pliers and remove them.
	Back the tool off of the retainer and slide the tool out of the way.
	Remove the retainer and valvespring - if the bottom washer under the valvespring comes off with the valvespring, put it back on the head, you don't want to lose it.
	Here's a look at the valve with the valvespring out of the way. Now it will be easy to remove the valvestem seal and replace it.
	Grab the valvestem seal with a pliers, and wiggle it off of the head. NOTE from a reader - it is safest to use some rubber/flexible plastic tubing that fits over the valvestem. Slide it over the valvestem, grab the seal, and pull the seal and tubing off at the same time. The tubing will protect the valvestem if the pliers slip. A scratched valvestem can quickly destroy a new seal.
	Here it is ready for the new valvestem seal. Lube the inside lip of the new seal with oil, and carefully press it onto the valvestem - make sure the spring on the lip of the seal does not pop loose.
	Place a 1/4" drive 11mm deep socket on an extension, and press the seal onto the head. You do not need to use a hammer, it just takes light hand pressure to press the seal into place.
	The seal installed.
	The keepers, valve retainer, and valvespring. Once the seal is installed, place the valvespring and retainer back on the head.
	Slide the compressor tool over the valve, compress the valvespring until the top of the valvestem is sticking out of the retainer far enough to see the groove in the valvestem.
	Use the needlenose pliers to place the keepers onto the valvestem - if you coat the keepers with grease, it will help them stick to the valvestem. Then slowly back off the compressor tool, making sure the keepers lock into the groove on the valvestem and stay in place. If they lock into place properly, the top of the valvestem will barely protrude from the end of the retainer, and just the tops of the keepers will be visible. Compare it to one of the valves that hasn't been disassembled to make sure it looks right.

THAT'S IT! Once you have replaced all the valvestem seals and reassembled all the valves, remove the tool, place the cams in their bores, fingertighten the cam bearing caps in place, place the rockers between the valves and cams, tap the cam bearing caps down as tightly as you can, snug the caps down, then torque them to the value in the Shop Manual in the order noted. Then make sure the dowel pins on the camshaft sprockets are facing straight up, align the other timing belt marks, and reinstall the timing belt.

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