2G Timing Belt VFAQ
| TECHNICAL |
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![[Timing Belt Layout]](../proj-pics/Tbelt/Tbelt5sml.jpg) |
![[Timing Belt Layout]](../proj-pics/Tbelt/Tbelt2sml.jpg) |
![[Timing Belt Layout]](../proj-pics/Tbelt/Tbelt3sml.jpg) |
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SUBJECT: |
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| SERVICE |
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Camshaft Timing/Balance Belt |
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Replacement/Adjustment |
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| BULLETIN |
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Service Procedure |
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Click on pics above for fullsize versions if you wish
| This Shop Manual procedure is no longer fit to show
to a dealer, it is for the home mechanic only. HOWEVER, it seems to be more complete than most
dealer paperwork, so if you are having a shop do your work, and think they could use this, feel
free to print it for them. |
| NOTE: |
THIS PAGE PROVIDES A DETAILED PROCEDURE FOR PERFORMING THE 60,000 MILE
MAINTENANCE REQUIRED FOR THESE VEHICLES. IT IS A SERVICE TO THOSE OF US OUT OF
WARRANTY, WHO NEED TO CHANGE THEIR TIMING BELTS THEMSELVES. |
MODELS:
1995 - 1996 Eclipse/Talon
| NOTE: |
THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH THE 2.OL DOHC TURBO ENGINE
ONLY (NON-TURBO engine is Chrysler, not Mitsubishi, and will be covered in
a separate VFAQ). |
DISCUSSION:
The purpose of this bulletin is to emphasize the importance of performing
the timing belt replacement and camshaft timing in the proper sequence to assure
complete and satisfactory service.
| NOTE: DO BOTH BELTS!!! Doing only the main
timing belt is just asking for it, as the balancer belt can break, jam things up, and take the
timing belt with it. |
| If your engine has high mileage, it is a
GOOD idea to replace the waterpump, timing belt tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley,
and balancer belt tensioner pulley while doing the belts.
|
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
Camshaft Timing Belt Removal:
It may be convenient to raise the vehicle to a level where work
can be performed through the wheel well and over the top of the fender.
- Remove lower left engine compartment splash shield.
- Support engine with engine support fixture, tool #C-4852 or #7137, and
remove the left engine mount and bracket (Figure 1). (The engine may be supported
with a jack on the oil pan, but make SURE to place it so that the force is
distributed as widely as possible, and PAD the jack with several
layers of cardboard or heavy cloth to avoid bending the oil pan.)
Figure 1
- Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Remove the alternator/water pump drive
belts, and the power steering drive belt.
Important: Loosen water
pump pulley bolts before removing belt.
- Remove water pump pulley.
- Remove the AC tensioner pulley bracket and the A/C belt.
- Remove crankshaft pulley.
- Remove the upper and 2 lower timing belt covers (Figure 2).
Figure 2
- Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks so as to bring
the No. 1 piston to the Top-Dead-Center (TDC) position of the compression
stroke.
Caution: Rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise
direction.
The camshaft sprocket timing marks must be aligned
together (left sprocket at the 3 o'clock and right sprocket at the 9 o'clock
positions) (Figure 3).
Figure 3
Both camshaft sprocket timing marks must be in line with the top
surface of the cylinder head (Figure 4). [A straight edge (ruler) laid across
the center of the cam shaft attaching bolts will help you to better see and
align the timing marks.] The crankshaft and oil pump sprockets must also be
aligned with their respective timing marks (Figure 4).
NOTE: Crankshaft may need to be rotated up to six turns before all
sprockets are properly aligned and the rear balance shaft is in phase, due to
the oil pump-to-balance shaft gear ratio.
Figure 4
- Remove rubber plug from inner timing belt cover and screw special tool no.
MD-998738 (contact Miller Tool for this tool - 800-801-5420, http://www.spxmiller.com/)
into the engine left support bracket until it makes contact with the tensioner arm
(Figures 5 & 6). (Fig 6 is less accurate, it is a 1G diagram. Fig 7 is a more
accurate representation of the tensioner pulley.)
Figure 5
Figure 6
- Loosen the tensioner pulley center bolt (Figure 7).
Figure 7
- Compress the Auto Tensioner push rod by SLOWLY rotating special
tool no. MD998738 until hole in Auto Tensioner push rod aligns with the hole in
the Auto Tensioner body (Figure 6).
NOTE: PUSH ROD MAY NEED TO BE ROTATED IF HOLE IN ROD IS NOT VERTICALLY IN
LINE WITH HOLE IN HOUSING.
- Insert a 1/16 inch allen wrench or similar pin {1.4 mm (.055 in.) in
diameter} into the aligned holes to hold the push rod in the reset (pinned)
position. Back off special tool MD998738 once auto tensioner is in the reset
position (Figure 8).
Figure 8
- INSPECT THE TENSIONER AND REPLACE IT IF IT SHOWS SIGNS OF OIL LEAKAGE.
Remove the tensioner from the engine. Apply 98-196N (22-44lbs) force to the auto tensioner by pressing
it against a solid surface (cylinder block, etc), and measure the movement of the push rod
| Standard Value: Within 1mm (.04in) |
| A: Length when it is not depressed |
12mm (.47in) |
| B: Length when it is depressed |
11mm (.43in) |
| A-B: Movement |
1mm (.04in) |
If it is out of the standard value, replace the auto tensioner
- Remove and discard the camshaft timing belt.
Removal of Balancer Belt (Timing Belt "B")
- Loosen balancer belt tensioner pulley center bolt (Figure 9) and thread the belt off of the crankshaft balance belt
sprocket. You should be able to get it off from around the backing plate between the crank and balance belt sprockets
without removing the crank sprocket and backing plate.
Figure 9
- Remove and discard balancer belt
Timing Belt Installation:
Balancer belt (Timing Belt "B"):
- Ensure that the crankshaft sprocket and the silent shaft sprocket timing
marks are aligned. Install new balancer belt (buy FACTORY belts, not aftermarket) over crankshaft
sprocket "B", around the tensioner pulley, and over the counterbalance shaft
sprocket. Do not leave any slack on the tension side of the belt (Figure 10).
NOTE that if you are replacing the balance belt tensioner pulley, there is a lip on
this pulley - on 95s, the lip goes on the inside, towards the block. 97-up, possibly 96-up, have a
different pulley with a smaller lip, their pulley installs with the lip on the outside. Click
on the pics at the top of the VFAQ to see a closeup of a 95 engine - notice the larger lip than what
you will have with a 97-up (possibly 96-up).
Figure 10, 1996 Models
- Push the balancer belt tensioner up to place pressure on the
balancer belt so that the tension side is taut. Belt tension should be 5-7 mm
(.20-.28 in.) using the belt deflection method. Tighten the tensioner center
bolt and torque to 15-22 Nm (11-16 ft. lbs.) (Figure 11).
CAUTION: When tightening the bolt, ensure that that tensioner pulley shaft does not
rotate with the bolt. Allowing it to rotate with the bolt can cause excessive tension
on the belt.
Figure 11
- Install crankshaft sprocket and torque to 117 ± 9 Nm (87 ± 7 ft.
lbs.).
Camshaft Timing Belt:
- If your engine has high mileage, it is a GOOD idea to replace the waterpump, timing belt
tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley (27 ft-lb), and balancer belt tensioner pulley while doing the belts. This
is the time to do it - remove the tensioner, and you can swap in the new water pump. It is suggested you silicone
the gasket to the pump the day before with a very light coating of silicone, just enough to hold the
gasket on (so thin you can easily see through it).
- If you replaced the waterpump, NOW is the time to put the radiator back in (if you
removed it) and refill it to verify you have no leaks. Fill it with water only, so you can
drain it and remove the radiator again (allows better access to the PS pump and alternator).
Make sure to reinstall the tensioner arm bolt and washer (16 ft-lb). (Figure 11b)
Figure 11b
- Align the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets, crankshaft sprocket, and oil pump sprocket.
(Figure 12).
Figure 12
- Remove the balance shaft plug on the rear side of the cylinder block and
insert a Phillips screwdriver {shank diameter 8 mm (.32 in.)} through the hole.
The balance shaft is in the correct position if the screwdriver can be inserted
at least 60 mm (2.4 in.). If the inserted depth is less than this only 20-25 mm
(.8-1.0 in.), the oil pump sprocket must be rotated one full turn and timing
marks realigned. Recheck the balance shaft position using the screwdriver to
ensure that it can be inserted 60 mm (2.4 in.) or more. Keep the screwdriver
inserted until timing belt installation is complete (Figure 13).
NOTE that there is an easier way to do this.
Simply rotate the mark on the oil pump sprocket until it is pointing straight up,
and let it go. If the sprocket rotates towards (counterclockwise)
the timing mark on the engine, the oil pump sprocket is aligned correctly. If it
rotates away (clockwise) from the mark, spin the sprocket a full
turn and test again, and it should properly rotate towards the mark now. Now line
the mark on the sprocket back up with the mark on the engine. This avoids
having to remove the rear access bolt entirely.
| Caution: |
MAKE SURE THE BALANCE SHAFT IS PROPERLY POSITIONED. It is possible
for the oil pump sprocket timing marks to be properly aligned, and have the
balance shaft out of phase. This could result in a SEVERE engine vibration. |
Figure 13
- Install the new timing belt over the intake side camshaft sprocket and
clamp it in position with a clip (Figure 14).
Figure 14
- Use a wrench to maintain alignment of the two camshafts and install the
timing belt over the exhaust side sprocket, aligning the timing marks as shown
in Figure 4 and clamp the belt in position with a clip (Figures 15 & 16).
Figure 15
Figure 16
- Position the timing belt (buy FACTORY belts, not aftermarket) around the idler pulley,
oil pump sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley (in that order) as shown in
Figure 17.
Figure 17
- Rotate the tensioner pulley in a counterclockwise direction until the belt is taut and tighten
the center bolt finger tight (Figure 18).
Figure 18
NOTE: MAKE SURE ALL TIMING BELT TEETH ARE ENGAGED WITH THE TEETH ON THE
CAMSHAFTS, OIL PUMP, AND CRANKSHAFT SPROCKETS AND THAT ALL TIMING MARKS ARE
STILL PROPERLY ALIGNED.
- Screw the tool in until its end makes contact with the tensioner arm. Screw the tool in
a little more, and remove the set wire/pin from the auto tensioner.
- Remove the tensioner tool.
- Remove the two clips holding the belt to the camshaft sprockets.
- Rotate the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley so that the pinholes are
under the center bolt. Tighten the center bolt to spec (48 Nm (35 ft-lbs))
(Figure 19).
Figure 19
- After turning the crankshaft 1/4 counterclockwise, turn it clockwise until the timing
marks are aligned.
NOTE: THE EXHAUST CAMSHAFT SPROCKET MAY ROTATE IN THE COUNTERCLOCKWISE
DIRECTION AS THE BELT IS TENSIONED. THIS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED WHEN INSTALLING THE TIMING BELT.
If the camshaft sprocket timing marks don't line up after tensioning the belt with all the other
timing marks lined up, loosen the belt and retension it, but try rotating the exhaust sprocket
slightly clockwise (1 tooth off) first.
- Loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, then use the special tensioner tool and a torque
wrench to apply 3.5 Nm (2.6 ft-lbs) of torque to the pulley (this puts a light tension
on the timing belt). Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to spec (48 Nm (35 ft-lbs)) (Figure 20).
- IF THE VEHICLE BODY INTERFERES WITH THE SPECIAL TOOL AND THE TORQUE
WRENCH, RAISE THE ENGINE UP SLIGHTLY UNTIL THERE IS ADEQUATE CLEARANCE.
CAUTION: When tightening the tensioner pulley bolt, do not let the tensioner pulley rotate with the bolt.
Figure 20
- Turn the crankshaft 2 revolutions clockwise so that the timing marks are aligned. After leaving
it for 15 minutes, measure the auto tensioner push rod gap with a drill bit (distance
between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body) to ensure that it falls
within the specification of 3.8-4.5mm (.150-.177in) as shown in Figure 21.
Figure 21
- If the gap is outside spec, repeat Steps 34-36.
- Check again to see that all timing marks are aligned.
- Remove the screwdriver from the balance shaft hole and install the plug.
- Reinstall the tensioner tool rubber plug.
- Install the upper and lower timing belt covers as shown in Figure 22.
| | | |
| 95-96 DSMs |
Bolt sizes |
|
![[Figure 22, 95-96]](../proj-pics/Tbelt/fig22d.gif) |
Thread diameter × thread length mm (in.) |
Bolt Classification |
Torque Nm (ft-lbs) |
| A: 6 x 16 (.24 x .63) |
Flange bolt |
10-12 (7.2-8.7) |
| B: 6 x 18 (.24 x .70) |
Flange bolt |
10-12 (7.2-8.7) |
| C: 6 x 25 (.24 x .98) |
Washer bolt |
8.8 (6.5) |
| D: 6 x 25 (.24 x .98) |
Flange bolt |
10-12 (7.2-8.7) |
| E: 6 x 45 (.24 x 1.77) |
Flange bolt |
10-12 (7.2-8.7) |
|
Figure 22 |
Note that timing cover bolts vary in length. Make sure that the proper size bolts are installed in the
correct hole locations. (Figure 22)
- Install crankshaft pulley and torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs.).
- Install A/C tensioner bracket with A/C belt and torque to 25 ± 1 Nm
(18 ± 2 ft. lbs.). Adjust belt tension to 6.5-7.5 mm (.26-.30 in.) belt
deflection.
- Install water pump pulley.
- Install alternator/water pump and power steering drive belts and adjust
belt tension as follows:
|
|
Belt Deflection |
| Alternator/Water Pump Belt |
|
7.5-9.0 mm (.30-.35 in.) |
| Power Steering Belt |
|
5.5-8.0 mm (.22-.32 in.) |
- Lower the engine and install left front engine mount and bracket and torque to the
specifications shown in Figure 23.
Figure 23
- Install lower engine compartment splash shield.
Timing Belt Layout
Timing Belt Layout
POLICY: Information Only.
Helpful video for Timing Belt changes available at:
http://www.trix.com/cgray/tbelt/tbelt.html
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Last modified: Apr 11, 2000
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