Many times not all graphics are stored by the WaybackMachine, so if there are graphics missing from the following VFAQ, please don't email me about them (unless you are emailing me to tell me you have a copy of the missing graphic you can send me).
If you know the original author of this VFAQ, and have their contact info, please have them email me if they have any missing info to add, have the VFAQ at another site I could not find, or wish to have it removed from my site.
Lately I've been getting ten or more emails a week asking some questions
so heres a short faq
covering some of the basics.........
Q1. What is the Quaife part number for the Eclipse?
A1. The box says "Quaife ATB Differential Part #76.309.150
for application Mitsubishi
Eclipse/Talon/Laser AWD/FWD 1990 through 1998".
Q2. How hard is the install?
A2. Not all that hard if you've changed a clutch before and know how
to remove the transmission.
See the rest of this page.
Q3. What else do I need to buy apart from the quaife?
A3. You will need a speedo ring gear (approx $20) that has to be heated
and pressed onto the Quaife. You will
most likely need two new diff bearings (part #22602/$20 each) and a
shim spacer kit to take up endplay
(part #22611/$20).
Q4. When I split the tranny open a gear falls out. Is this normal?
YES....just remember to slide it back in when you are putting the tranny
back together.
Q5. Where does the plastic rod thing go that came out of the tranny?
A5. It can only go in one way. Just mess with it and you'll see.
Q6. Do I really need the shim kit. Where do they go and how does
it work anyway?
A6. The shim kit (#22611 is FWD part number) consists of a bag
of five large washers of varying thickness's. The shims are used to
take up endplay so your new diff seats snuggly into the diff housing
and can't slop back and forth.
You have to decide what shims to use (if any). A shim or shims can
be fitted just inside the diff bearings on the diff
itself.
A parts diagram is listed at the bottom of this page showing a schematic
of what is what. Just for the record I got
my quaife from Road Race
Engineering.
2. Take the tranny off the car and remove end cover.
The end cover bolts have been removed in this image.
3. When you remove the end cover you will be presented
with a sight similar to that shown below.
The gears shown have to be removed so that the center casing can be
pulled from the differential
housing. To do this you will have to remove two 36mm nuts. To stop
the gears from turning while
you slacken the nuts try placing a penny in the gear teeth and let
it bend and lock the gears
together.
Once the 36mm nuts are gone, you can disconnect
the selector fork by punching out the retaining roll
pin at the base of the fork. Now, gently remove the gears with a prybar
or a gear puller.
4. This picture was taken after completion of the
procedure above. The next step is to disconnect anything that
is stopping the main casing from lifting off of the diff housing. To
do this we have to remove the three bolts that
hold the selector rods in gear (easily spotted by looking for three
bolts in a line). They intersect the three circular
holes you can see with one of the selector rods sticking out up in
front of my thumb nail. As you remove each
bolt a spring and ball will come out with it. Keep this stuff in a
safe place.
5. This image shows what you'll see when you lift
off the main casing. A gear will fall out as you lift the casing up.
This is normal. It can only go back in one way so don't sweat it yet.
You can see the stock diff is just resting
in there. It can be lifted out at this point.
6. This is a better picture that shows the open
stock front differential turned over 90 degrees
and sitting on its side. You can see that the standard speedo ring
gear is cast into the old diff.
8. As mentioned before, a new speedo ring gear
has to be used with the quaife since the standard
ring gear is cast into the old diff. You can pick up the new one for
20 US dollars. It has to
be heated up and chapped on with a small hammer.
At this stage I placed a thin shim over the differential
and pressed on a new bearing.
9. The final drive gear has to be removed from
the old diff and bolted onto the quaife. Remember
to use locktite and get the bolts nice and tight. I used another shim
on this end then pressed on a new bearing.
11. A Mitsubishi drawing of a FWD differential
assembly and the part numbers are listed for
reference. The spacer kit you might need is the part known as 22611.
The idea is that you get five
washers of varying thickness and you have to choose which ones you
need to take
the slop out of the diff. The spacers go between the diff bearings
and the diff itself.
The outer rings that reside on the outer side of the bearings can be
re-used. Not everybody
needs to use a shim kit but I did (big time).
Hope this helps fellow DSM'rs. Any suggestions can be sent to kdickson@austin.rr.com
(dixie, Austin, TX)
Keep upgrading guys. Thanks go to some of the folks on
http://www.notabusinessracing.org
http://www.dsmtalk.com
http://texasimports.net/
http://www.forcedperformance.com